The Filament Friday Bed Leveler is an ingenious little device designed by Chuck Hellebuyck (From the YouTube Channel Filament Friday) to assist with the bed levelling of any FDM 3D printer by making the process easy and consistent.
The device is available on Amazon with two options: a slightly more expensive pre-assembled device or an unassembled DIY version (which I opted for). However, both versions require some 3D-printed parts to be supplied by the customer.
Assembly of the DIY version is straightforward, with the only tools required being a soldering iron, wire cutters and pliers.
Just note that although the leveler supports any FDM printer, in theory, the gcode required to use the device is only available for a limited set of printers. It is, however, possible to modify the supplied gcode to work with any printer and here is the gcode I have changed to work with my Wanhao i3 Mini (This gcode will work for any printer with the same size print bed like the Monoprice i3 Mini).
To use the Filament Friday Bed Leveler the following four-step process is utilised:
Step 1:
Copy the Filament Friday Bed Leveler gcode file to an SD card and print the file on your 3D printer. This will result in the print head moving to the first corner and waiting for a pre-defined time (as configured in the gcode) before moving to the next corner.
Step 2:
Insert the bed leveler under the print head with the nozzle centred on the cross printed on the top of the device.
Step 3:
Loosen\Tighten the bed levelling screws of the corresponding corner until the LED on the bed leveler barely lights up. (The LED should be dimly lit if the LED is brightly lit, the nozzle is too close to the bed.)
Step 4:
Repeat steps 2 and 3 for all the corners of the print bed. For the best results, repeat the entire process one additional time.
The Filament Friday Bed Leveler is a great and inexpensive little device that takes the guesswork out of bed levelling, and for the price, you cannot go wrong by adding it to your 3D printing toolset.
At the beginning of 2022, I performed various upgrades to my Wanhao i3 Mini 3D printer, mostly related to the hotend, cooling and filament delivery.
I replaced the heat break and the nozzle from a hot end perspective. In addition, I replaced the standard stainless steel heat break with the Yunbotong V6 bi-metal heat break, which is a titanium alloy heat break with a copper plated throat that is E3D V6 compatible. The difference between the two materials (i.e. the titanium alloy and the copper) results in a difference in thermal conductivity, which improves heat dissipation efficiency.
I replaced the standard copper nozzle with a titanium nozzle, which offers higher durability and thus can deliver higher quality prints for longer.
By 3d printing and using the dual fan mount linked here, I was able to add an additional fan and thus double the hot end cooling capacity. Additionally, I replaced the standard inexpensive 24V 40mm fan with two Noctua nf-a4x20 flx fans. The nf-a4x20 flx is a premium quiet fan, with award-winning cooling and acoustic performance. This upgrade significantly improved the cooling of both the hot end and the print area and has dramatically improved print quality.
Lastly, regarding filament delivery, I replaced the standard PTFE Bowden tubing with Capricorn PTFE Bowden tubing. Capricorn PTFE Bowden tubing contains additional high lubricity additives that make it the lowest friction Bowden tubing on the market. This lower friction results in improved responsiveness and less slippage, which results in better print quality.
The upgrades mentioned above have been very successful and have greatly improved the print quality I was able to produce with my 3d printer.
The eSUN eSilk PLA filaments are a range of PLA-based filaments that result in 3D prints that have a silky smooth finish. The eSilk range is available in numerous colors, and the gold color was used for this review.
The eSilk PLA filaments claim to print exactly the same as normal PLA filaments with a recommended print temperature of 190~220℃ and no heated bed required, however, I found the filament softer than normal PLA and more prone to clogging. I found that I got the best and most reliable results printing at 185℃.
The mechanical properties of the eSilk filament were almost identical to normal PLA once printed with good toughness and detail, with the only noticeable difference in the finish which has the appearance of a shiny silky luster, similar to brushed gold.
The eSUN eSilk PLA filaments retail for $24.99 for a 1KG spool and if a silky finish is required the filament checks all the boxes.
Fillamentum is a Czech Republic-based company specializing in the manufacturing of high-quality 3D printing filaments. Their PLA filament, which they call PLA Extrafill. The filament is made of natural ingredients and can be biodegraded by industrial composting. PLA Extrafill is also safe for food contact applications.
Fillamentum PLA Extrafill is more expensive than many other companies PLA filaments, costing approximately $26 (USD) for 750 grams of filament compared to approximately $28 (USD) for 1kg of CCTREE filament.
Extrafill is available in diameters of 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm (with a diameter tolerance of +-0.05mm), and in a wide variety of colors, I used “Traffic Black” for this review.
As with all PLA-based filaments, it has a recommended printing temperature of 190-210°C.
I experienced a great deal of difficulty successfully printing this PLA, far more than any other PLA I have used in the past. The PLA Extrafill kept clogging the 3D printer hot end with every single print. I tried various setting profiles in Cura. However, the result was always a clogged hot end. This was the case until I dropped the default retraction distance in CURA by a third, and this rectified the clogging hot end issue and allowed me to complete a few successful prints. However, reducing the retraction distance did result in a great deal of striking, more than any other PLA I have ever used. I did manage to reduce this by changing the travel and retraction speeds and reducing the print temperature to 180°C.
Here are some photos of my attempts to print the 3DBenchy model. They illustrate nicely the difficulties encountered.
As I kept refining the settings, I managed to get better results and eliminated more of the print issues I experienced.
Here are some pictures of a Judge Dredd bust with only slight drooping issues around the helmet.
I also printed a Desk organizer to store my 3D print finishing tools.
I finally managed to refine my setting to the point where I could print miniatures with a great level of detail.
The Above picture shows the miniatures next to a AA battery for scale.
If anyone is interested in the Cure settings used to print these miniatures, you can download my Cura settings profile here. This was configured on Cura 4.8.0.
Fillamentum PLA Extrafill is capable of producing excellent results if you put in the work. However, I do feel that given the difficulties experienced with the filament and the results being no better than other less expensive filaments, for example, eSun PLA+, I find Fillamentum PLA Extrafill extremely difficult to recommend.
In this post, I will cover some projects I have worked on over the last few months and some projects I have planned for the future.
Bipedal Robot
I am currently busy building a bipedal robot based on this Instructables post by K.Biagini. I used his design as a foundation and added additional components and functionality (such as arms and a Piezo for sound).
I had to modify his 3D models to achieve what I wanted. Here are links to download my modified 3d Models: – Body Extension (to fit in the extra components) – Link – Modified Head – Link – Arms – Link
Here is a list of all the electronic components used: – 1x Arduino Nano – 6x micro servos – 2 x push buttons – 1x mini toggle switch – 1x 9v Battery – 1x ultrasonic sensor (HC-SR04) – 1x RGB LED – 1x Piezo
These components are connected as follows:
Pinout configuration of Arduino Nano:
Pin Number
Connected Hardware
2
Ultrasonic Sensor Echo Pin
3
RGB LED Red Pin
4
Push Button 1
5
RGB LED Green Pin
6
RGB LED Blue Pin
7
Push Button 2
8
Servo Signal Pin (Right Hip)
9
Servo Signal Pin (Right Ankle)
10
Servo Signal Pin (Left Hip)
11
Piezo
12
Servo Signal Pin (Left Ankle)
13
Ultrasonic Sensor Trigger Pin
14 (A0)
Servo Signal Pin (Left Arm)
15 (A1)
Servo Signal Pin (Right Arm)
This is still an in-progress project and is not done, Especially from a coding perspective on the Arduino, but once I have completed this project, I will create a post containing the complete source code.
Rotary Control
I needed a rotary control for another project discussed below, so I decided to build one as per this Post on the Prusa Printers blog. It is based on an Arduino Pro Micro and uses Rotary Encoder Module.
I modified the code available on the Prusa blog to mimic keyboard WASD inputs. Turning the dial left and right will input A and D, respectively. Pressing in the dial control push button will switch to up and down inputs, thus turning the dial left and right will input W and S. Here is the modified code (Based on Prusa Printers blog post code):
#include <ClickEncoder.h>
#include <TimerOne.h>
#include <HID-Project.h>
#define ENCODER_CLK A0
#define ENCODER_DT A1
#define ENCODER_SW A2
ClickEncoder *encoder; // variable representing the rotary encoder
int16_t last, value; // variables for current and last rotation value
bool upDown = false;
void timerIsr() {
encoder->service();
}
void setup() {
Serial.begin(9600); // Opens the serial connection
Keyboard.begin();
encoder = new ClickEncoder(ENCODER_DT, ENCODER_CLK, ENCODER_SW);
Timer1.initialize(1000); // Initializes the timer
Timer1.attachInterrupt(timerIsr);
last = -1;
}
void loop() {
value += encoder->getValue();
if (value != last) {
if (upDown)
{
if(last<value) // Detecting the direction of rotation
Keyboard.write('s');
else
Keyboard.write('w');
}
else
{
if(last<value) // Detecting the direction of rotation
Keyboard.write('d');
else
Keyboard.write('a');
}
last = value;
Serial.print("Encoder Value: ");
Serial.println(value);
}
// This next part handles the rotary encoder BUTTON
ClickEncoder::Button b = encoder->getButton();
if (b != ClickEncoder::Open) {
switch (b) {
case ClickEncoder::Clicked:
upDown = !upDown;
break;
case ClickEncoder::DoubleClicked:
break;
}
}
delay(10);
}
I use the rotary control with a Raspberry Pi to control a camera pan-tilt mechanism. Here is a video showing it in action:
I will cover the purpose of the camera as well as the configuration and coding related to the pan-tilt mechanism later in this post.
Raspberry Pi Projects
Raspberry Pi and TensorFlow lite
TensorFlow is a deep learning library developed by Google that allows for the easy creation and implementation of Machine Learning models. There are many articles available online on how to do this, so I will not focus on how to do this.
At a high level, I created a basic object identification model created on my windows PC and then converted the model to a TensorFlow lite model that can be run on a Raspberry pi 4. When the TensorFlow lite model is run on the Raspberry Pi, a video feed is shown of the attached Raspberry Pi camera, with green blocks around items that the model has identified with a text label of what the model believes the object is, as well as a numerical percentage which indicates the level of confidence the model has in the object identification.
I have attached a 3inch LCD screen (in a 3D printed housing) to the Raspberry Pi to show the video feed and object identification in real-time.
The Raspberry Pi Camera is mounted on a pan-tilt bracket which is controlled via two micro servos. As mentioned earlier, the pan-tilt mechanism is controlled via the dial control discussed earlier. The pan-tilt mechanism servos are driven by an Arduino Uno R3 connected to the Raspberry Pi 4 via USB. I initially connected servos straight to Raspberry Pi GPIO pins. However, this resulted in servo jitter. After numerous modifications and attempted fixes, I was not happy with the results, so I decided to use an Arduino Uno R3 to drive the servos instead and connect it to the Raspberry Pi Via USB. I have always found hardware interfacing significantly easier with Arduino and also the result more consistent.
Here is a diagram of how the servos are connected to the Arduino Uno R3:
Below is the Arduino source code I wrote to control the servos. Instructions are sent to the Arduino through serial communication via USB, and the servos are adjusted accordingly.
On the Raspberry Pi, the following Python script is used to transfer the rotary control input via serial communication to the Arduino:
# Import libraries
import serial
import time
import keyboard
import pygame
pygame.init()
screen = pygame.display.set_mode((1, 1))
with serial.Serial("/dev/ttyACM0", 9600, timeout=1) as arduino:
time.sleep(0.1)
if arduino.isOpen():
done = False
while not done:
for event in pygame.event.get():
if event.type == pygame.QUIT:
done = True
elif event.type == pygame.KEYDOWN:
if event.key == pygame.K_s:
arduino.write('s'.encode())
if event.key == pygame.K_w:
arduino.write('w'.encode())
if event.key == pygame.K_a:
arduino.write('a'.encode())
if event.key == pygame.K_d:
arduino.write('d'.encode())
time.sleep(0.5)
arduino.Close();
print ("Goodbye")
The next thing I want to implement on this project is face tracking using TensorFlow lite with automated camera movement.
It is possible to run Quake 1 on the Raspberry Pi Zero following the instructions in this GitHub, and it runs great.
Raspberry Pi Mini Server Rack
I have 3D printed a mini server rack and configured a four Raspberry Pi Cluster consisting of three raspberry Pi 3s and one Raspberry Pi 2. They are all networked via a basic five-port switch.
I am currently busy with a few different projects using the Pi cluster and will have some posts in the future going into some more details on these projects.
I developed a little Python application to monitor my different Raspberry Pis and show which ones are online (shown in green) and offline (shown in red).
The application pings each endpoint every 5 seconds, and it is also possible to click on an individual endpoint to ping it immediately. The list of endpoints is read from a CSV file, and it is easy to add additional endpoints. The UI is automatically updated on program startup with the endpoints listed in the CSV file.
Here is the Python source code of the application:
import PySimpleGUI as sg
import csv
import time
import os
from apscheduler.schedulers.background import BackgroundScheduler
def ping(address):
response = os.system("ping -n 1 " + address)
return response
def update_element(server):
global window
global layout
response = ping(server.address)
if response == 0:
server.status = 1
window.Element(server.name).Update(button_color=('white', 'green'))
window.refresh()
else:
server.status = 0
window.Element(server.name).Update(button_color=('white', 'red'))
window.refresh()
def update_window():
global serverList
for server in serverlist:
update_element(server)
class server:
def __init__(self, name, address, status):
self.name = name
self.address = address
self.status = status
serverlist = []
with open('servers.csv') as csv_file:
csv_reader = csv.reader(csv_file, delimiter=',')
line_count = 0
for row in csv_reader:
if line_count == 0:
line_count += 1
else:
serverlist.append(server(row[0], row[1], 0))
line_count += 1
layout = [
[sg.Text("Server List:")],
]
for server in serverlist:
layout.append([sg.Button('%s' % server.name,
button_color=('white', 'orange'),
key='%s' % server.name)])
window = sg.Window(title="KillerRobotics Server Monitor",
layout=layout, margins=(100, 30))
window.finalize()
scheduler = BackgroundScheduler()
scheduler.start()
scheduler.add_job(update_window, 'interval', seconds=5, id='server_check_job')
while True:
event, values = window.read()
if event == sg.WIN_CLOSED:
scheduler.remove_all_jobs()
scheduler.shutdown()
window.close()
break
elif event in [server.name for server in serverlist]:
scheduler.pause()
update_element([server for server in
serverlist if server.name == event][0])
scheduler.resume()
Raspberry Pi Pico
I ordered a few Raspberry Pi Picos on its release, and thus far, I am very impressed with this small and inexpensive microcontroller.
The Raspberry Pi Pico sells for $4 (USD) and has the following specifications: – RP2040 microcontroller chip designed by Raspberry Pi – Dual-core Arm Cortex-M0+ processor, flexible clock running up to 133 MHz – 264KB on-chip SRAM – 2MB on-board QSPI Flash – 26 multifunction GPIO pins, including 3 analogue inputs – 2 × UART, 2 × SPI controllers, 2 × I2C controllers, 16 × PWM channels – 1 × USB 1.1 controller and PHY, with host and device support – 8 × Programmable I/O (PIO) state machines for custom peripheral support – Low-power sleep and dormant modes – Accurate on-chip clock – Temperature sensor – Accelerated integer and floating-point libraries on-chip
It is a versatile little microcontroller that nicely fills the gap between Arduino and similar microcontrollers and the more traditional Raspberry Pis or similar single board computers. I have only scratched the surface of using the Pico on some really basic projects, but I have quite a few ideas of using it on some more interesting projects in the future.
3D Printing
I ran into some problems with my 3D printer (Wanhao i3 Mini) over the last few months. The First problem was that half of the printed LCD display died, which was an annoyance, but the printer was still usable. The next issue, which was significantly more severe, was that the printer was unable to heat up the hot end.
My first course of action was to replace both the heating cartridge and the thermistor to ensure that neither of those components were to blame, and unfortunately, they were not. After some diagnostics with a multimeter on the printer’s motherboard, I determined that no power was passing through to the heating cartridge connectors on the motherboard.
I ordered a replacement motherboard and installed it, and the 3D printer is working as good as new again. When I have some more time, I will try and diagnose the exact problem on the old motherboard and repair it. Here are photos of the old motherboard I removed from the printer:
Below are some photos of a few things I have 3D printed the last few months:
When a 3D print completes printing, it seldom looks like a refined and finished item, from support material that needs to be removed to rough edges that need to be smoothed, quite a bit of work is required to make a 3D print look acceptable.
Here is a quick guide of how I finish my 3D prints to look less like 3D printed items and more like professionally produced commercial products.
Let us first look at the tools I use in the finishing process:
Wire Cutting Pliers and Long Nose Pliers – These are useful when removing support material from 3D prints.
Wire Brushes – Perfect for a first pass cleanup on newly printed items to remove any stringing and excess material.
Needle Files – Useful for smoothing rough spots on prints, especially in small confined areas.
Craft Knives – To remove any stubborn unwanted material from 3D prints.
Model Sanding Block – For standing confined areas of 3D prints.
Heated 3D Print Finishing Tool – Perfect for removing stringing and extra material from 3D prints.
Sand Paper – Used for general smoothing of 3D prints. It is best to wet sand 3D prints as it prevents the print from melting and getting ruined by the heat created from sanding friction.
Wood Filler – Used to fill any unwanted gaps and holes in 3D prints.
Spray Paint Primer – This is used to prime 3D prints for painting. Priming also hides small imperfections on 3D prints. Use a primer that is plastic friendly.
Model Paint and Brushes – I like Tamiya model paint and brushes, but any model paint supplies should work great.
Now let us look at the finishing process.
Step 1: Select a model and 3D print it.
It is very important to note that the better your 3D printer is maintained and configured, the better the end results will be. Here is an example of the same model 3D printed and finished. The first was printed before I replaced my hot end and did some basic maintenance on my 3D printer (the nozzle was worn, and the heater cartridge started giving issues, I also tightened the belts). The second was printed after I completed the replacement and maintenance.
The print lines in the first print are clearly visible, even after sanding, while the second model has a smooth finish even with minimal sanding.
Step 2: Remove support material, initial sanding, and filler.
Using wire brushes to do a quick pass over the 3D print to remove any excess material, then sand model using wet sanding method (using sandpaper and water). When sanding the 3D print, start standing with coarse-grit sandpaper (60 grit) and work down to a finer grit (220 grit). Finally, fill any gaps using wood filler.
Step 3: Final Sanding.
When the wood filler has dried, go over the print one final time with very fine grit sandpaper (400 grit).
Step 4: Priming the 3D print
When spraying the 3D print with primer, it is important to hold the spray can at least 30cm away from the 3D print and do long even passes over the model, starting and ending each pass to the side of the 3D print and not directly on the print as it will result in droplets forming.
Step 5: Painting the 3D print
After the primer has completely dried, it is time to paint the model as desired. Using a wethering technique like black-washing brings out the detail of 3d prints amazingly. Black-washing is done by mixing black (or dark color) paint with some paint thinners, then painting all over the model, putting particular focus on getting the paint into all the nooks and crannies on the print. Then finally wiping away most of the paint with some paper towel. This gives the model a weathered realistic look.
Step 6: Done!
And finally, display your newly created item with pride.
I had to travel for work to New York City for a week at the end of February (returning early March), and upon returning, I became ill with the flu (I was tested for COVID-19, and luckily tests came back negative). Nevertheless, I was placed on doctor mandated self-isolation. On the 26th March at 23:59, the government of South Africa put the country on lockdown, meaning that you can only leave your house to buy food, get medication, or seek urgent medical assistance. The Army was deployed to assist the police in enforcing the lockdown, and leaving your home for any other reason than the ones mentioned above can result in you being arrested.
This does mean that I have been at home, except a handful of exceptions, for over a month now, and have kept myself busy with a variety of things, such as playing video games, watching some movies, doing a few Python courses and 3d printing a few things.
From a gaming perspective, I have been playing the following games:
Legend of Zelda Link’s Awakening (on the Nintendo Switch)
I thoroughly enjoyed Link’s Awakening, and it is an amazing remake of the Gameboy classic. The game has buckets of charm and is very enjoyable. It is not a challenging game, except for the last boss that can be a bit tricky. I highly recommend Link’s Awakening, and I enjoyed every second from beginning to end, and it took me about 15 hours to complete.
Animal Crossing New Horizons (on the Nintendo Switch)
I have been absolutely obsessed with Animal Crossing New Horizons, and I must have logged over 40 hours of gameplay to date, and I am still far from done with this game. It is the perfect game while stuck at home, and it is a fantastically fun and feel-good game.
Afterparty (on the Nintendo Switch)
A delightful adventure by Night School Studio, the creators of Oxenfree. I enjoyed this game, and I love the art style. The game is about 6 hours long, and I am now busy with my second play through doing alternative paths from my first playthrough. Afterparty is a must for anyone who loves adventure games.
Doom 64 (on the Nintendo Switch)
Doom64 is a tremendous classic fps, and it plays fantastically in Switch Handheld mode. Initially released in 1997 on the Nintendo 64, it has now been re-released on modern platforms. All the enemies and weapons received a redesign from the original Doom games, and I love how enemies look in Doom 64. Doom 64 is a must-play for any Doom fan.
Mario Kart 8 Deluxe (on the Nintendo Switch)
I am busy playing through Mario Kart 8 again, I have finished the game on the WiiU previously, but I am casually playing through it again between Animal Crossing sessions. Mario Kart 8 Deluxe on the Switch is the definitive version of Mario Kart 8, with all the DLC included and with enhanced graphics (and a fixed battle mode), it is the best Mario Kart game to date.
Doom Eternal (on PC)
Doom Eternal is a beautiful game, and it definitely amps up the difficulty from Doom 2016. All the enemies received a redesign from Doom 2016, with the new designs being more closely inspired by the original Doom games (Doom and Doom II). I love the redesigns of the enemies, and thus far, I am enjoying the game. The game has more strategy compared to Doom 2016, with some enemies having specific weak points that can be exploited, and certain kills (glory kill, chainsaw and flamethrower) providing specific pickups (either health, ammo or armor). The game truly looks amazing and performs great, and I am having no issues running the game at 144fps on Ultra Nightmare settings at 1440p on my 9900k and RTX2080. A definite must-play for FPS fans.
I have also watched a fair number of movies, including:
Not for Resale: A Video Game Store Documentary
I enjoyed this documentary about Video Game stores and physical media, and I will be posting a full review soon.
Indie Game the Movie
An entertaining and informative look at the indie game industry, a must-watch for anyone interested in the process of creating video games. I will also be posting a full review of Indie Game the Movie soon.
I have also kept myself busy 3D printing a few things, mostly using the CCTree PLA Wood filament. I have had a few requests from colleagues and friends for Baby Groot and Pikachu models, so I printed out a few of each to give away.
The CCTREE Carbon Fibre PLA filament is a 1.75mm PLA filament infused with Carbon Fibre, resulting in a filament that can produce prints that are much stronger than standard PLA. This filament is thus ideal for high-wear and load-bearing prints.
This higher durability does come at two significant tradeoffs. Firstly CCTREE Carbon Fibre filament costs approximately double what CCTREE standard PLA filament costs. Secondly and probably the largest problem with this filament is that it experiences significant bowing as it cools compared to standard PLA filament.
This bowing can result in prints separating from the print bed, which occurred more than once during my testing, and below is a picture of the consequences of one of these bed adhesion failures.
I found that the Carbon Fibre filament worked best when printing smaller items as the bowing occurred much less on a small surface area.
Here is a picture of some items I printed using the Carbon Fibre filament to upgrade my Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini.
On the left in the image is a filament guide that prevents the filament from grazing against the printer body and ensures smooth filament movement. On the right are bed stabilizers that prevent unwanted bed movements that result from slight shifts in the bed leveling springs.
I also printed a tool caddy using the Carbon Fibre filament, and this was the largest item I printed successfully using the filament. Here are some photos of the tool caddy.
As can be seen in the Wanhao logo on the tool caddy a good level of detail is possible using the CTREE Carbon Fibre filament. Also note that all prints required minimal cleanup, with little to no stringing occurring.
Here are a few pictures of the upgrades installed.
The CCTREE Carbon Fibre PLA filament is a very useful filament for printing functional parts that require a level of robustness not offered by PLA, but it does require more care and tweaking to print successfully. It is an excellent filament, just not one for beginners.
On a side note, I recently installed a silicon sock on my printer’s hot end. This is a simple and inexpensive upgrade that offer numerous benefits such as helping to keep the hot end temperature constant and keeping the hot end clean. It also a safety measure and prevents burns from accidentally touching the hot end. It is definitely a worthwhile upgrade considering the minimal investment required.
CCTREE Metalfied filaments are PLA based filaments blended with high-sheen particles in various metallic colors that result in 3d prints that have a polished metal finish. It is important to note that this is not a metal-infused filament, such as Bronzefil, which contains the actual metal in question, but rather a PLA filament with a metallic appearance, resulting in a filament that is much easier to print compared to the metal-infused filaments.
The Metalfied filament we will be looking at is the Copper variation.
I have previously reviewed the normal PLA and Wood CCTree filaments and found them to be of exceptional quality at a very reasonable price, and with the Metalfied Copper filament once again I was not disappointed. The filament prints exactly like normal PLA filaments, and a great level of detail is possible as shown in the photos below:
For reference here are the Cura settings utilized for the prints above:
As can be seen in the photos of the 3d prints a shiny metallic finish is achieved that looks remarkably similar to polished copper. The filament is an absolute breeze to print with and the end results are beautiful.
I would highly recommend this filament to anyone who is looking for a metallic finish and is not quite ready or willing to undertake the more difficult task of printing with a metal-infused filament.
The CCTree PLA filament we will be looking at today is the 1.75mm diameter variety, but it is also available in 3mm. The filament is available in a wide variety of colors, around 25 colors, and is sold in 1kg spools.
The experience with this filament has been great, producing very good quality prints with a great level of detail and only minimal 3D printed object cleanup required after printing.
During printing the filament has minimal stringing, if any at all, and I have never had a print fail because of a filament issue using CCTREE PLA filament.
CCTREE PLA filament is a very easy filament to print with and offers great value being one of the less expensive filaments available. I would highly recommend this filament for novices and experienced 3D print enthusiasts alike.
CCTREE Wood Filament
CCTREE Wood filament is a 1.75mm diameter filament consisting of a mixture of PLA plastic and wood fibers that produces prints with a slightly rough wood-like finish, similar to Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF), that can be sanded and stained in a similar way to wood.
This filament is slightly more challenging to print with and is more prone to stringing (due to the wood fibers) and larger flat surfaces are prone to slight bowing as the print cools down.
It is still however possible to produce prints with a great level of detail, it just requires an extra bit of cleanup and finishing.
During printing, this filament gives off a subtle wood-like odor.
The CCTREE Wood filament is more expensive than their PLA filament, costing approximately double the price.
This filament is great for prints that benefit from a more natural wood-like finish (for example a baby Groot) and the end result looks fantastic. This is a great filament but is probably not the best choice for a 3D printing newbie to get started with.
CCTree filaments offer great quality and value for money, the filaments are available in a wide variety of colors and options and they come highly recommended.